Let me be honest from the beginning. I do not have mad motorcycle skills. I dreamt of riding a bike in Thailand, but I’m 5 feet tall. I have to be realistic. My first experience on a motorcycle helped me to quickly understand that it was not a possibility for me to ride by myself (I couldn’t touch the ground). But, dreams can come true in a wide variety of ways, and I knew who to enlist in a motorcycle adventure in Thailand: my Macao buddy, Charles.
Deserted beach? Thailand? They do exist, but they won’t be on all the main tourist stretches.
It was the perfect partnership: Charles likes driving and staying in nice places; I like arriving at, and spending time on beautiful and sometimes deserted beaches. Deserted beach? Thailand? You might be thinking: 10 years ago. They do exist, but they won’t be on all the main tourist stretches unless you are up at 6 am or you have paid for a hotel with its own private beach.
Day 1: Leaving Bangkok
The motorcycle, which we named The Monster, is delivered by BBR rentals to the Sunflower Place hotel (See THIS post for more info on the Sunflower) while we were getting massages at Center Point Spa the night before.I tested my road trip navigation skills using a THiNKNET map of Bangkok bought at Asia books near the Sala Daeng BTS. We were out of Bangkok in 30 minutes with the help of accidentally illegally using the cars and trucks only bridge. I have undeniably amazing navigational skills –oops! We drove 189.6 kilometers on Route 4 to Phetchaburi stopping along the way for bathroom breaks and refreshments.
Day 2: Phetchaburi
On our one night in Phetchaburi, we rolled up after dark, hungry and tired. This place has a small town feel with all the stores and many of the restaurants, but not food stalls, we saw from the motorcycle closing around 8pm. Hostels are located in the main part of the city, either next to the river or one street away from the river. We chose the first place we saw, which was on the water, tucked back from the road. We were greeting by the owner and shown a room with toilet/shower outside–your basic backpacker hostel. Before leaving town, we visited a well-kept ancient Wat (temple). We drove 84.2 kilometers following the coastline on Route 4.
Day 3-6: Hua Hin
Hua Hin was on our visit list because I wanted to try Kitesurfing
Upon arriving in Hua Hin, we booked two nights for last minute prices at the Wora Bura Resort and Spa on Agoda while eating lunch in Ye Olde Buffalo Tavern. Several days later, we booked the Veranda Lodge Hotel (lots of mosquitos). Both were lovely. Hua Hin was on our visit list because I wanted to try Kitesurfing. The experience was good, though I didn’t complete the beginners course due to lack of wind. Charles and I enjoyed strolling through the Christmas and New Year’s night markets where they sold everything from watercolor landscapes to crispy critters (yay for bugs). The only downside of the place was that the beaches were extremely crowded. Think rows and rows of people. This might have been because we visited during high season, but the place is really popular.
Day 7: Bangsaphan
There are a couple of beach hotels near the water. We chose Prachuap Khiri Khan Sailom Resort Bangsaphan and dined over the water in one of the 5 nearby restaurants. Drive away from the beach towards town to enjoy one of the many outside bars with Karaoke. The sound of waves crashing against the beach through the screen door lulled me to sleep on the night that we stayed here. Being further away from the heavily touristed areas, we nearly had the entire resort to ourselves.
The sound of waves crashing against the beach through the screen door lulled me to sleep.
We slowly began our way back to Bangkok by taking the coastal road 30 kilometers to Ban Krut for our next evening.
Day 8: Bangsaphan/Ban Krut
Rachavadee Ban Krut Resort is heaven for lovers of deserted beaches. Use the free bikes or drive down the road to a bustling restaurant, spa, and resort area. I have learned from my travels to trust the locals, so we always choose the restaurants with the most Thai customers. I dream of returning to this wonderful resort when I have more than one night to stay. Its beauty is conducive to sudden rushes of creativity that are needed for getting through writer’s block. They also had a wonderful pool where you could relax if the waves were too strong. After our night here, we began the long journey back to Bangkok. 195 kilometers.
I have learned from my travels to trust the locals.
Day 9: Cha-am Beach
On Day 9 of our great motorcycle road trip, we arrived at the beach in Cha-am and took the first guesthouse we saw. In the future, I will not stay in a hotel directly next to the beach unless I am joining the all night party. A very touristy town, there are plenty of good looking places to eat. We arrived late in the evening, went to eat, for a walk and then I crashed. Waking up at 5 am, I went to join the party goers that were winding down and the food and inner tube vendors setting up shop. When I arrived at the beach, I immediately began to take off my sandals until I got a whiff of vomit and decided against removing my sandals. I walked away from the spot and further down the beach and the vomit smell followed me until I left the beach. After the amazing beaches further south, I was glad that we only spent one night in Cha-am.
Day 10: Bangkok
Bangkok reentry and our first traffic ticket on Sukhumvit! The police are clearly used to giving tickets to tourists who don’t know that under the highway overpass headed to Nana on Sukhumvit, all traffic must turn to the left for a small loop to get back to Sukhumvit except buses. We made this mistake and were confused when the traffic cop pulled us over. He was very fast in explaining the problem in English. The ticket took 8 minutes to process and pay once Charles entered the police booth/ticket processing center located conveniently right there, under the bridge. 1,500 Baht lighter, we continued onward to our hotel, The Manhattan. Later that night, after trying the contrived New Year’s celebrations at the Sheraton, the Westin, the Sofitel and others, we celebrated a very musical New Year’s with a pink flamingo, a flock of Frenchmen, and 2 singing Brits at Margarita Storm.
Day 11: Bangkok
The monster returns home. Our journey is over.
Read our article: People Will Stare & How to Pack for a Motorcycle Trip for extra trips on packing, planning, unplanning, and other tasty morsels.